Buttonhole-cutting mechanism.



' B. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE CUTTING MECHANISM.

I APPLICATION FILED NOV. 23, 1910. 1 ,48386. Patented Dec. 31, 1912.

4 SHEETSSHEET 1.

E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE CUTTING MECHANISM,

APPLICATION TIL-ED NOV. 23, 1910. 1,04..8,786. Patented Dec.31,1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

III! III ullllll E. B." A LEN. BUTTONHOLE CUTTING MECHANISM.

APPLXOATION FILED NOV. 23,1910.

Patented Dec. 31, 1912.

4 SHEETS SHE'ET 3;

. WEEK g wi tmeoow;

B; ALLEN. UTTONHOLE CUTTING MECHANISM -APPLICATION FILED NOV. 23. 1910Patented 1960.31, 1912.

55' embodying the present sTAIEs ,A K FEILC YJER.

EDWARD B. ALLnmoF. snmonron'r, eonnncmrcn'r, ASSIGNOR o rims "s KennMANUFACTURING COMPANY, a oonronnrron 'osnnw .JEnsnY.

BUTTONHOLE-CUTTING MECHANISM.

To all whom it may concern Be it'known that I,'ED\VARD l3. A rmen, acitizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfield and 5 State of Connecticut, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Button' hole Cutting Mecl'ianisma of whichthe'foilowing a specification. reference being had therein-to theaccompanying drawings.

This invention has for its object to provide a simple and effectivebut-tonhole cutting mechanism 'operating with precision and with therequisite power to perfornrits function as required. In'its mostapprovedembo'diment',-,itis applied to a buttonhole stitching machine havingrotary stitchforming mechanism with a laterally shifting needle-throatadapted to be tempdrarily displaced during the cutting operation; anditcomprises a pair of"cut-ter-leversprovided with any suitableor usual,form of cooperatingcutting members and mounted upon av fulcrum-pin nearthe operativeends and carried'by a longitudinally traveling sl de--machine,the oppositely extending end portions or tails of the leversbeing connected by 'a' spring and embracing-anactuating shaft carrying acam for. forcing the tails of such levers apart to bring their cuttingmembers together upon the work. The laterally 'moyable needle-throat iscarried by a' rockingframe mounted upon the rotaryloop-taker-supportwith a transverse fullevers to inoperative position.

The invention will be iinderstood by refer :ence 'toqt-he, accompanyingdrawings, in Wl1lCh'-f H :Figure i1 is alpartial side elevation of abuttonholej cutting.;and .etitching machine improvement, withSpecification of Letters Patent.

block sustained by the' work-plate of the cr un intersecting the axis ofrotation and frame is permitted to tilt, but is caused to return tooperative'position by the "action.- o-f the cam bar 'upon its rigid 'armin thej recession of. the slide-block and the 'cutter'-' *hollow head 5.

Patented Dec} 3 ae is;

Application filed November 28,1916. Serial No. 593,784} e M m l thecutting mechanism in retracted or: inofn erative-position, and the-frameindicated partlyin dotted lines and zpartlya -in section,

. below the level of the Work-plate. Fig p tis a perspective View ofthetraveling'fulcruma carrying slide-block or carriageand Fig. 5 atransverse sectional z-elevation of the same wlth a portion of thebed-plate. Fig. 6 is a plan of the loop-takev mechanism partly turnechaswhen stitch ng the eyelet-'endof' a-buttonhole. Fig. Trisa perspectiveview "'0 of the needle-throat and .itsrocking frame. Fig. 8 is atransverse sectional 'vieW-ofthe front end of the upper cutting leverwith its cutting member and Fig.'-9 asimii-ar view: of the lowercutting-lever l1'i'(l 'l-i s" (3ltttii1g member with asection ofmaterialesting thereon. Fi .10 is a rear end ietWofrthe lower part 0 themachine with the bed partially insection, and Fig; 111a", tialsecit-ionai side elevation of the sani e.. r lligr'fi 89 isa detail Viewofthe clutch' wheel upon 1elower longitudinal shaft.'..Figs. .13 aindfl'are detail perspective 'VlGWS- representing the cutter-shaft clutchdeviceand-Figs; lo -antler 16 are, respectively, a sidei'ieWan'd/a'transverse section of the cam-lever ofysaid clutche device.Fig. l7-is a front end View (ifthe head oft-he bracket-arm withxe-rtainparts sustainedthereby. Fig. 18 shoWs tliecam 139 detached. i I 96 Themachine represented in-the drawings "is that forming the subjectofmyp'endirig application Serial No. 590,269, filed Novemher, 2, 1910,and constructed in sub." antialf 'z;

accordance with. that represented an: my I pending application SerialNo. 53-3,34Q,-tiled December 28, 1909,1with the eXeeption-anoreparticularly of the stitch-forming;ahtittent ting mechanisms; It.constructedila"tha the hollow rectangnlarbase lwitlr be .te 10 "2 fromthe rear end of whichrisesdhehollow standard 3 -ofthe brachet armfhas'the forwardly extending memberi'if The main or .dhlVilIgESiha L ir. 6 ismounted in and lOngllfilldilltlilYltOfLlhfi base 1 and is providedwit-h'du-artering cranks 7 connected by inie'ans ofpitmenifi withsimilar cranks 9 of the upper or needledriving shaftlO jo-urnaledvinthebracizet fz.

arm member f The main-shaft 6 is pro- 11o vided upon its rearward endwith the grooved loose belt-wheelill controlled in its operativeronnection with the shaft 6 by means ofian automatically actuated clutchudevice.

The needle-driving shaft 10 is connected withthe intermediate shaft 12by means-of a trammel device 13 for imparting two rotat-ions of thelatter to one of the former, 1 and the shaft 12 carries a crank-plate Hhaving a. pin connected by means of the pitman'L'S with a Similar pinupon a loose collar .'16 fitted to and confined from endwise movementup'onlthe rectilinearly reciprocat- 5 ing-needle-bar 17 having its lowerbearing 1 in the rota; bushing 1'8 in which it is locked from rotationby means of the splinelZ- and carrying upon its lower end the yoke 19 inwhich is-journaled. the laterally jogging .20 needle-clamp 20' y ing theneedle 21.

' Journaled' in a be low boss 22 carried by a dependin hanger 23 of themachine bed is a rotary ushing 24'foi-med at its upper- -end with a head25 afiordin'g a loop-taker 25 support, which is provided'fwithlthespaced bearing bosses 26 carrying the transverse fulcrum upon which thehub 27 the loo er-carrier is'mounted, and provided also wit lugs 28supporting the fulcrinn-pin of so the loop-detainer carrier 29. Upon thelooper-carrier are fixed the reversely directed threaded andnon-threaded loopers 30 and 31 overlying the latter of which is thepivotally mounted spreader 32, while upon the loop-detainer carrier 29is fixed the loop detainer 33 cooperating with the threaded looper.Suitable operative connections are rovided between the main-shaft andthe ooper-carrier and loop-detainer carrier, re- 4|) spectively, wherebythe several lowenthread i a handling members receive their operativemovements for coiiperating with the rcciprocatingand laterally joggingneedle, all as fully set forth in my said appl. :ation Se- 45 rial No.590,269.

- The loopei support 25 carries the diamet v rically arrangedscrew-studs entering bearing apertures 35 in the lateral arn'is 36 oftherockmg frame 37 having in its upper m-end the inwardly extending luglongitudin'ally grooved in its upper face to form a seat upon which issecured by means cl? 'thescrew 39 the foot 40 of an upwardly and lateraly extending bracket 41 carrying the 55 needlc inhroat 42. The arm 36 ot'the needle throat frame nearest'the front in the initial position of theparts, has a forward extensioli 43 with an upwardly extending knob orrejection 4.4; at its extremity and whose ction will be later described.The rin 'frame' 37 is provided with a tra ad iustling screw 45 whosepoint 1 r the bearing boss 26 of the loop-ta jtlplltill. and islockedfrom turning by means of the 65 set-nut 46. By this means theposition of the needle-throatma-y be adjusted relative to the plane ofthe jogging movements of the needle. I

In practice the machine is provided with the usual traveling work-clampsustained by the bed-plate 2 and deriving its lon 'tudinal feedingmovements and. side shift. movements from suitable operativeconnect-ions with the feed-cam 47 deriving ste -by-step rotary movementsfrom the clutc -dog 48 connected with a vibratory lever 49 receivingoperative movements through the link 50 from a vibratory lever 51actuated by the cam 52 upon the main-shaft 6, as full described in mysaid application Seria No. 535,340.

The feed-cam 47 is formed, in its lower face with a groove 47 entered bya stud 53 carried by a bar 54 secured to the lower slide-bar suitablyjournaled in bearings of the base 1 and attached at its rearward end tothe lower end of the crosshead 56 whose upper end attached to theslide-bar 5T 'journaled in suitable bearings of the braclmt-arm. Thelower slide-bar is formed at its forward end with a series of lateralrack-teeth 58 meshing withthe teeth of apinion 59 fixed upon the rotarybushing 2 t; while the upper slide-bar 57 is connect ed with a laterallytoothed rack-bar (l0 meshing with a pinion 61 fixed upon the necdlebarbushing 18. By these means, the upper and lower .rnembers of the stitchfoaming niecl'n an derive step-bv-step semia. g; the stitching of theeyelet bnttmiholes, whereby stitches are laid ratv illy around the edgestl'iereof. Any suitable or usual means may be provided for retro-hingthe raclnbars 5S and to initial position subsequent to their operativemovement for turning the stitchforming mechanism during the tauttonholeeye-stitching opei tion and after the arrest of the stitchforiti'iingmechanism at the completimi of a buttonhole According to the present in-'\'en.tion, and as .lesc.::i.hed more particularly in my said pendingapplication Serial. Xo. Edda-laid, this return movement of the rackbarsis effected by means of the fecd-cani 4.7 whose operative movement iscontinued. after the driving shaft 6 comes to rest.

Beneath. the hollow standard 3 of the bracket-anti the bed-plate 2 isformed with an opening 62 for-certain operative parts of the machine,this opening being connected by the reduced channel-way 63 with thefront of the machine, along the opposite edges of which in the upperside of the bedplate are formed the parallel notches 64 covered by theoverhanging edges of the strips (55 secured. to the bod-plate by meansof screws do so as to aitord lateral slidewa-ys in the opposite edges ofthe channehway. The fulcrum-carrying slide-block comprises the flatplate '67 formed with the laterally its extending tongues 68 enteringthe slidevvav of the clituinel-vvav-63 and provided with t-he2spa'c-edlugsfitl provided with the alined tra'l'isverse apertures It) for thefulcrtnn-pin Tl. confined there-1n by means of the enlarged rad Z2 oneend and the head of the screw 73 tapped into the opposite end.

Mounted upon the fulcrumqiiin T1 areprimary cutter-niemher 78in the formof a soinewlmt. blunt-edged knife with the enl'argt-zn'icnt T8 forcutting out the eye portion of the buttonhole slit. The knife 78 extendsdownwardly"from a block 79 of dove-tail shape adjustahly secured bymeans of theset-sorevv 80 within a correspondingly formed longitudinalgroovein the lovver face of a transverse v atlji'istable block 81 havingupon its upper face the transverse tongue of dove-tail shape whichfitted Within a correspondingly shaped groove in r with the forward endportion of the primary euttenlever Tel which-is recessed in its lowerface to receive said block 81. The lever 74- is-p'rovided adjacent itsdove-tailed groove transverse screw aperture 88 termi--.

countersunk recesses'Sl in the opi s of the lever to rec ive the heads hof -l n'ljnsting screws C- enteringgaid screw perture from diff-1 itfaces of the i The screvv heads partially overlie lil fi i'lltlfi of theblock 8ivvhich they serve to contine 'l at een thenii l3 retracting oneof "rows 8 and correspondingly the other, the block 81 may he shifted"sidew'ise to provide the desired lateral adjust r nent of the'prin'ianv] cutter-mein-ber rel ativeto the range of action of thestitch-torming n'zech m; While the loosening of the .set-sorevv SUpermits the endvvise adjustment oit'the knife TS parall with thedirection of '-"l'of the Work ltlz'tih'tlj to the stitchine hanism; Asthe cutten levers ied a ainst bOtllliV move- 9 J of the slide-block senthat the upper and lower 'nbers are n'iaint: tied permanently 1 eachwith the otneiwand' i tained V cel from the fulcrtun-pin in t thecutting mechanism. The, =J i=rtions of the cut-ter-l.evers rearlvancaretitted closely upon the ful-' l l I l 'vided with the alined 1a theadjusting screvv 1'02 en t' ward of the falcrun'rpin Tl have securedthereon adjacent their respective upper and lovver edges by means ofthetastenlng screws 87 the plates 88 each provided with a laterallyext-aiding pin 89, to which isiat} tached one of the ends of a spring 90for drawing the levers together to maintain the cutter normally openwith component as support for the straight edge 175; of

the lower cuttcr-lever parallel with the bedplate 2 and with the lowercutter-member7T. T his collar performs the function '01" acam incontrolling the position; of; the lower cutter-member, and its peripheryis shaped;

accordingly, being cylindricalzin the pres-; ent instance. As itengages'the lever at a istance comparatively remote from the fulcrum-pin 'T1,it acts with a long leverage. in

conjunction with the fulcrum-pin, to sus-.

mm the thrust of the cutter-niembersand relieves the traveling.fulc'rtnn-block from any strain other than a direct downward thrustwhich transmitteddirectlvtothe bed-plate'Q, so that no tilting action isimposed upon the fulcrtnn-b'lock by the action of the cutting mechanisi-Fixed upon the shaft 91 adjacent the cell "r is acam 93- formed with aninitiallvacting operative edge portion 94: and a subsequentlyactingportion Sl 'adjOining thesame and but slightly eccentric to the faXisofthe'shaft. Resting upon this; cam, the greater portion of whoseperiphery is concentric with the shaft, is a Wearing piece of angularcross section comprising the'plate Qoand't-h'e Wedge-shaped lip orflange-.96 extending laterally therefrom and underlying the flat inneredge of the rearward 'end portion of the cutter-lever T l Tl' e plate 95is proe itudinal slots and 98 parallel with the upper face of the -Wedget-l6, the'former being entered byithe headed guide-pin 9t) projectingfrom the adjacent face of the lever 7%.; and the lat-tor entered andguided. by a shouldered :Sfltd 100 having a head 101 i'nivhiclris-svviveled g in g athreaded aperture in the lug 103 carried bythe plate The screw 1.02 is prevented from endvvise movement relativetothe stud 100 by a fixed collar 10% between which and the screw-head isconfined the head 101 of the stud.

By turning the nd uStingscren' in one or the'other direction the wearingpiece o is moved longittnlinallv of the cutter-lever 74: and theloivenor tviearing-faceof ts \vetlg shaped flange is thusIXIQYQfltOWZIIiCl andifrom the shaft relatively to the edge of thelever, for adjusting the initial. position of the upper or primarycuttei'--n'xeniber toward and from the lower or auxiliary cutter-member,whereby the cutting action of the mechanism may be varied.

One of the spaced lugs 69 of the block is formed with an undercutfulcrumslotto receive the head 106 of a stud-bolt 107,-

upon which is confined by means of the nut 108 the bushing 109 affordinga ivota l' stud embraced by the boss 110 at. ,ie, orward end of alink-bar 111 having in its rearward end portion 112 a longitudinal slot113 to form a yokeembracing aguide-block 114 fitted therein and mountedupon the actuating shaft 91-. The portion 112 of the link-bar isprovided, in alinement with the shaft t l and stud 107, with a lateralstud 115 entering a cam-slot 116 in the forward face of a cam-wheel 117fixed upon the shaft 91 by means of which to-and-fro operative move--ments toward and from the stitch-forming mechanism are imparted to thelink-bar and communicated through the fulcrum-block and the fulcrum-pin71 and to the cutterlevers 74 and 7 5 and the cutter-members carriedthereby.

To the depending portion 69 of one of the lugs 69 of the fulcrunrblockissecured by means of the screws 118 the shank 119 of the cam bar 120otlset downwardly and forwardly from the same. The lower face of thecam-bar'is provided near its outer end with aflat portion 121 mergingrearwardly into the upwardly inclined operative portion 122 of acam-notch terminating in a shoulder 123. I p p In the normalpositionofthe partspre paratory to'a buttonhole cutting and stitch ingoperation, as represented in Figs. 1 and 3, the knob 44 of the'arm 43 ofthe needlethroat frame rests upon the flat extreme lower portion 121 ofthe cam-bar so as to hold the frame 37 in upright position with theneedle-throat 42 in initial operative relation with the stitch-formingmechanism. As the f11lcrun1block is advanced to bring the cutt ngmembers into operative position for a buttonhole cutting operation, thecam-bar moves forward over the needlethroat frame arm 43 and fulcrum-pin34 to bring the cam incline 122above the contact knob-or projection 44toafford for the latter clearance to permit the tilting of the arm43 andthe retraction of the needle-throat. which is thrust aside substantiallyin the direction of movement of the cutter by engagementwith the forwardextremity of the lower cutter-member T7, and while in extreme forwardposition, the upper cutter-lever is tilt ed, at first rapidly. byengagement of the cam'portion 94' of the cam 93 with. its wearingpiece,and subsequently much slower by the cam portion94 into operativeengagement with the lower cani member 77 to cut the bnttonhole slit. allas reprwentrd in Fig. 2. The spring 90 serves, in conjunction 1 in aradial slideway 132- mg a confined against movement upon the with theoperative portion 94 of the cam 93 in, the separation of thecutter-members, the fulcrum-block is simultaneous! tracted to withdrawthe cutter-layers 4 75 by means of. the cam 116, the consequentretrograde movement bar -11) of the camcausing the action of its incline122 upon the arm 43 of the tilting frame 37,to restore the needle-throatto initial operative position in which it is locked by engagement of theextremity of thearm 4-3 with'the flat outer portion of the cam-bar 120.This operative engagement of the arm 43 ofv the rocking frame with thecam-bar 120 continues throughoutthe stitching of the first side of thebuttonhole, and until the stitching mechanism commences to turnforstitching the buttonhole eve. For maintaining the needle-throatlocked against displacement ,during the continuance of the stitchingoperation, the bearing boss-22 is provided at its upper end with asegmental curb 124 affordfiat seatat substantially the level of the fiatportion 121 of the cam-bar upon which is secured by means i of fasteningscrews 125 the segmental stop-plate 126 whose inner edge projectsinwardly fr0m the curb 124 and affords a segmental continuation of theflat portion 121 of the cambar 120. During the turning of thestitchforming mechanism from initial position represented in Figs. 1, 2and 3, to and beyond the position represented in Fig. 6 into extremeside stitching position for them- 0nd side stitching operation, theextremity of the arm 43 passes from beneath the cambar 120 under theoverhanging lip of the confining plate 126 where it is similigllycrum-stud 34- until the completion of acycle of the machine wherein thestitching mechanism is returned by the rack-and-pinion actuatingmechanism previously described to initial position. when the arm 43 isagain brought beneaththe cam-bar 120 preparatory to a succeeding cuttingoperation. It will thus-be seen that the needle-throat is effectivelylocked inoperative position, ex-

cepting during actual cutting operations, by;

stop-screw 45 with the boss 26 of the loop-taker support on the one handand successive engagement of the extremity of the arin 43 with thecam-bar 120 and the stop-plate 126 on the other'ha'nd.

As disclosed in my said application, Se-

engagement of the roe rial No. 535,340. the cutter-actuating:shaft 91carries a constantly driven grooved liaise belt-wheel 127 havingupon-its inner face the annular rib 128 formed with peripherallv spacednotehes129 to provide an annu-.

lar series of coupling teeth adapted for en gageirent by a lateralcoupling. tooth at fouled by the lug 13,0 upon therez'irward face of aslide-block 131 which is ui'oliiitui of the clutch disk l screw-p1 132fixed'upon the shaft 91 adjacent the belt-wheel. The slide-block 131 isnormally pressed outwardly .by means of a spring 131",

portions at the starting position. represented in Fig, 3, and has anincline connecting portion 133" upon the opposite side.

suitable to enable it to perform its function as hereinafter described.1

Thecam-plate 131 has at its lower end 'a rearwardly extending flange 110fitted within a slideway intermediate the top of the bed-plate 2 and thebottom of a notched lug 111 secured upon the bed-plate and formed with asocket between the bottom of which and the lower portion of'the camplate is interposed the spring 112 for normally pressing the cam-platetoward the face of tht-clutc h-disk 132. i

The cam-plate 131 is formed inits front face with a recess 113 in whichis pivoted by means of the screw-stud 111 the latch-plate 115 providedwitha pin 116 passing through a transverse slot 117 in the plate 131 andconnector by means of a spring 18 to a v 119 upon the lever so as tonormallykretain the latch-plate 115 with its forward or operative edge150 projecting slightly beyond the cam-edge 131 of the plate 131 andspaced above the stopshoulder 151 thereof slightly more than thethickness of the stud 133.

In'the normal stopping position of the 'parts thus described, theslide-block constituting a carrier for the coupling tooth 130 is atitsextreme inner position, with the coupling tooth 130 withdrawn fromengagement with the coupling teeth of the pulley-wheel 127 and with thestud 133 in contact with the stop-shoulder 151 of the cam-plate 131. Theshifting of the clutch controlling lever 135, by means presently to bedescribed. so as to retract the cam-plate 131 from the adjacent face ofthe clutch disk 132, carries'the stud 137 from the outer to the innerposition of the jog 13 of the cam-groove 13S and; disengages thestopshoulder 151 from the stud 133 of the slide-' block' orcarrier 131,thus permitting the latter to. move outwardl) under the action ofits'spring 131- to introduce the coupling teeth 30 into engagement withthe inclined inner face of'one of the teeth of the annular rib 128 alongiWhiCll'itrides into the intermediate notch 129 to couple theclutch-disk with theiving pulley-wheel 127. As the clutch-dish 132 nearsthe completion of rotation, the clutch-controllinglever 135 is returnedto initial position under the impulse of the spring 112 and theauxiliary ac ticn of the cam 13S, thusbringing the camedge 131,eccentric to the cutter-shaft 91,

into the path of movementhoffthe stud 133 by means of which the carrier131 is thrust:

inwardly to disengage its coupling tooth 130 from the pulley-wheelcoupling tooth for uncoupling the driven front-the driving member. Asthe stud 133 reaches initial position it engages the stop-shoulder 151of the cam-plate 131. and is prevented-from rebounding by the adjacentedge ofthe latchplate 115 which snaps into operative position as thestud 133 passesit and thrusts itinwardiy in opposition to the spring118. By the means thus -described, the cuttershaft 91 is given only asingle rota'ion for each clutch-releasing action of the controllinglever 135.

As disclosed more fully in my Patent No. 861,111, of August 27, 1907,adjacent the loose driving pulley 11 is secured upon the main-shaft 6the hub 1520f, a clutch-wheel or disk 153 recessed at one, portion ofits pe-. ripherv for the reception of a clutch-plate 151 interposedbetween said wheel and the wall of a chamber for the samein the loosepulley. said wheel also having a segmental recess upon the inner side ofsaid plate for the reception of a cam-projection- 1-55 upon aclutch-ring 156 which has a pivotal connection with said clutch-wheelbvmeans of said projection to enable the clutcluring to swing slightlyrelatively to the clutch-wheel cn'said projection as a center or. pivot,thus causing the cammed or flattened outer portion of said projection toclamp the clutchplate tightly against the wall of the chamber in thepulley 11' when the latter is to be connected to the driving shaft (3. V

The clutch-ring 156 is provided with a pin 157 extending within a recessin the clutchwheel 153conta1n1ng a spr1ng;=158 bearing tion of a lug orprojection 160 on a verticall movable block 161 carried by the vibratorystopmoti on lever 162 pivotally mounted in a bracket 163 on the base orframe of the machine by means of therocltshaft 1131 upon which saidlever is rigidly "mounted. a spring ltif) inserted within a recess insaid lever serving to press said block yieldingly downward and said(hutch-ring 15o being provided withjaireccentric or cam prrajectiml 'litito engage said lug or projection 1130 to lift the same for brakingthe final rotation of the shaft 6. and causing said projection to enterthe notch 159 and thereby cause the clutch ring to swing slightly inopposition to the action of the spring 155 for release of theclutch-plate 1 when the stopu otion lever 162 has been tripped to arrestthe rotation of the driving shaft.

The stop-lever 1 62 is provided atits upper end with a forwardlyextending thrust-plate 167 between which and the standard 3 of thebracket-arm is interposed a spring 168 tending to throw the loweroperative portion 'of the lever forwardly to bring the lug or projection1.60 of the block 161. into opera- I 'tive relation with the clutch-ring156- Fixed upon oneend of the pivoted rockshaft 164 ofthefstopdever 162is a forwardly extending arm 169 carrying at its extremity a. stud-screw170 upon which is mounted the anti-friction roller 171 disposed adjacentthe cam-wheel 117 and adapted to i be engaged by the eccentric outeroperative edge 172 of a cam-plate 173 secured by screws 174 upon therearward face of said canrwheel. the cutter-shaft 91 completes rotationin performing acutting operation, the. nner'port on ofthe ca1nedge 172of the ea'nr-plate 173.1 engages the roller-'17 1 of the stop-levershifting arm. 169 and depresses the same, whereby the-lug 160 isdisengaged from the notch 159 of the cam-ring 1.56 to permit the latterto assume under the action ofjthespringloi eccentric relation with thedriving shaft 6 to cause the stud 155 to nip the clutch-plate 15 1 incoupling theclutch: wheel to the loose pulley-wheeljll and therebyinitiate the action of the stitch forming mechanism. As the arm. 1 69:is de pressed, it is locked from immediate return to "initial" positionby the advance aboveuts upper edge of the lateral finger 175 of. one

. member 176 of a yoke formed atthe upper end of a lOClKlIig lever 177which. pivot ally mounted upon the fixed fulcruin-pin178 "and'is drawntoward the rearward side of the machine by means of a spring 179interposedbetweena pin 1.89 on said lever and an eye"181 upon theinnerfaceof the base 1. The-other member 182 of the yoke of the ldckin'glever is also provided with a later- 13-;illy ""rojecting fihger 183 therearward edge of 'w ich lies ixithe path of movement of the extremityofthe arm. 1.84. of a tripping lever mounted upon the fixed fulcrum-stud.185

' beneath the bedplate- 2 and having a for- 1.15 a lateral stop-pin 19d)whose'extremity is adapted to engage the inuer'face of the side wall ofthe base 1 in one extren'ie position of the levenumler the action of thespring 179 through the yoked locking lever 177,,wl1ile its tiltingaction to tln'ow the locking leverv backwardly to disengage the lockingfinger.

175 from the shift-lever 169 is imparted by a tripping stud 191 formedupon the periphery ofthefeed canrwhecl 17.

It is evidentthat, in lieu of the adjustmentof the nosepiece 187 abovedescribed, the tripping stud 191 may be adjustably nu unted upon thefeed cam-wheel similarly to the driving stud 195- of my Patent No;751,239.

The clutclrcontrolling lever 135 is provided adjacent itsfulcrun1-136w'ith an inwardly extending arm 192 to which is secured. byscrews 193 the foot 191 of a rigid arm 195 extending back of thestandard 3.

of the bracket-arm and having a lateral stopfinger 196 whose extremityis presented to the forward face of the thrust-plate 167 for which itserves as a stop at certain times. The parts 167 and 196 are representedin Figs. 19 and 1.1 in the relation which they assume when theClHl'Ch-OOII'EIOlllII lever 135 has been retracted to start theuttonhole cutting operation, as represented inv Fi 3,

Journaled in a bearing lug 197 depen ing from the head 5 of thebracket-arm is a horizontally arranged reciprocatory starting rod 198carrying near its forward end the depending finger-piece 199 andpivotally connected at its rearward end' by means of the pin 200 withthe upper end of an upright shift-lever 201 fulcrumed upon a transversepin 202 and having its rearward edge formed with a convex cam portion203 adapted to engage the front face ot the stop-arm 195 carried by theclutch-controllinglever 135. In the top of its forward portion thestarting rod 1.98 is formed with a notch i adapted to be entered by thelower operative edge of the forward arm of a detaining lever fulcrulnedupon the shouldered screw-stud 206 a ltording the lower fastening devicefor the face plate and having a rearwardly extending arm 207 whose upperedge is normally pressed against the lower side of the rack-bar underthe impulse of a spring 208. The forward portion of the rack-bar cutaway upon its under-side to permit the arm 205 to drop into the notch20-1. of the starting rod for locking the latter against endwiscmovement excepting when the rack-bar is in its extreme forward andinitial position, wherein the arm 207 rests upon the rounded bottom ofthe bar by which the nism for the stitchiorming devices but "is.

theresi'tcy ie'ci the stiteiiin stewed il I cewet'ing stitches eie sitestiie etit nntii the stii'e teryto the e .tiense cpemt finger-pies Ycanses the beckward maven ent- (if thered 198' and eense mane cf theshift-i 195 ft sin icii-ecntreiii 0i which the i atter is titrepppcsitipn tn "the spring;

being; fSlU-liii {IJIMAMJL sit 139 fieein the' ifieitvnrd i theearn-groove 138 t0 the Th movementcauses tie a tweed portiennsengegement of i ma ma-ass of the slide-121905181 item the cam'piete 134(Bi compelling iever 135 and permits the ccnpiing; ef the lease and iecnseqnent rotetien'ef the cutter-sill ts prcd'uce a Buttonhole cuttingoperatimn As the cuttet -shaft nears the completion of 1 movement, thecam-plate 1% engrelier 1'71 sf the' ski? fixed-Wheels 127 and 132- endthe wherein n d and the step-let perative engagert it, is of the riunit; e re;

t e iSQIii 8i ep forming mechanism rounded end of the s sin ter thecutter-shaft 9-1 has p 1d a partial rotation, the cam-plate '13ssustained by t iever' 135 begins to nesume eperat-ive pesi' under-theaction Of iiiil spring and groove 138 of the eempyiinder 135 and as tidecutter-shaft; apprcactiesltiie end 0i' its over the adjacent fedgenotation the'stnd 133 1"? es dew; chned I cam-edge 134* of theistch-piate -145- into engagement wi h the step-shoulder 151 whereit-is. c'enfined-by means of the io weredge cf the iateii'piate, beingsimultaneously t'hrnst inward tc disengage its I sampling tooth fKOIlE aeonpiing teeth ef the ldose -pnllcywheei 12?. ."When the clutch-.c'entrciiing iever is shifted tesiert the emitter-shaft 91, thedeteining member ai ingded by tile finger 196 is sitiitednearly in'tecents-st with the feewarti face of. the

the'ust-piate 167: eaiified whereby the iattet is in" nt tilted whiiethe 'cnttii but as the levee 1? the step'fingei it step-level",

- in ac b.

upon .hs' -W1ti1. the

'ia'nechsnisin can "ing ai'm 169 sent being hon,-

Witit the ti A it the shifting of the coupling the shaft 6 with ti i*fi'hen, iinwei'e I mix the finger 196 on last QiQSi'TlibEd; with the tin its forward position correspcnding with the eperative position of the-iever for eonpiing th 6 to 1 'puiiey, the ch entee. item a 1g e 1i;nicreby into Ierelbie engagement C we lever which iattei" is locked. inoperative means 01 the s;

'ng the start cutter-she enmng the te- 'e'iv' 1 ti e cut-ten i intosetien c. m nsiiaft It-wiiih that, as the starting rod is erstiveme'vement While retracted from initial pcsl 'LYEH after the sti torestbut before the lattes into ini 'ng of a new cycle of operation ofthe machine;

From the foregoing description it Wili be etwious that the presentcutting mechanism is not limited to association with stitchfmimingmechanism of any particular type and that certain ct its features arenot confined to' the cutting mechanism of the type 'heiein shown anddescribed, and that certain othersof its features may be modified incenstruction and arrangement of the component parts Without departurefrom the scape of the presentinvention.

Havi thus set fcrth the nature of the inventieii What I 'ciaim herein isT buttenhoie cutting and stitching the epml'iination withstitch-formnanism 0f a traveling fulcrum-block inevsmie toward-andfrointhe stitch-formin b thrusbpiete 167 of the starting mechanism, atransverse fulcrum-pin meunted in saiddnleelQ a cutter-iever mountedripen sziid' fulcrum-pin, a primary cutter .Inember monnted npon thefol-Ward end of said cutter-lever, a second cutter-member susteinedbyVandmovable with said fulcrumblock and positively maintained by thesame permanently m register andadspted to cocperate with: :said primarycritter-member,

and actuating means applied to said cutteriever whereby-saidcutter'members are closed ups; Week. 1

Ania b-ut'ltenheie cutting and stitching machine; the. cegn'einetienwith sti'tchf0rm'-- ehenistins e. t-mveii ng ink in 'v i i, sewers as:tee .c

mechanism, a transverse fulcrum-pin mounted in said block, acutter-lever mounted upon said fulcrum-pin, a. primary cuttermembcrmounted upon the forward end of said cutter-lever, a secondcutter-member sustained by and movable with said ful able toward andfrom the stitch-forming mechanism, a transverse fulcrunnpin mount-- edin bearings fixed upon said block, a cutterlever mounted upon said.fulcrum-pin, a primary cutter-member mounted upon the forward end ofsaid cutter-lever and maintained. thereon a fixed distance from saidfulcrumpin, a second cutter-member sustained by and movable with saidfulcrum-block and cooperating with said primary cutt;er-memher, and.actuating means applied to said cutter-lever whereby saidc'uttcninembers areclosed upon the work.

4. In a buttonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combination withstitch-to ing mechanism, of a traveling fulcrum-Merl: movable toward andfrom the stitclrforming mechanism, a transverse fulcrum-15 i mount-- edin said block, a cuttcnle'ver mounted upon said fulcrum-pin. and havingportions eX- tending forwardly and rearwardly ther from, a primarycutter-n'iember' nirjrunted upon the forward portion of saidcutterlcver, a second cutter-member sustained by and movable with saidfulcrunrblocli and cooperating with said primary cutter-inenr ber, anactuating shaft extending beneath and transversely of the rearwardportion of said cutter-lev'er, and a cam upon said shaft adapted forengagement with the cutterlever.

5. In a huttonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combination withstitch-form.- ing mechanism, of a traveling fulcrunrbloclt movabletoward and from the stitch-forming; mechanism, a transverse fulcrunrpinmount ed in said block, a cutter-lever mounted upon said fulcrum-pin andhaving portions e:; tending forwardly and rearwardly therefrom, aprimary cutter-membermounted upon the forward portion of said cuttcnlever, a second cuttor-member sustained by and movable with saidfulcnun-blocll: and cooperating with said primary cutter-meniher, anactuating shaft extending beneath and transversely of the rearwardportion of said cutterdover, and a camv fixed upon said shaft andprovided with relatively abrupt and gradual operative portions actingsuccessively, upon said cutter-lever for imparting to the primarycutter-member a two-stage closing movement upon the other cutter-member.a

6. In a but-tonhole cutting and stitching machine, the coinbinatiouwithstitclrfornr ing mechanism, of two cutter-levers carrying cooperatingcutter-members, a common fulcrinnupon which said cutter-levers aremounted, a transverse actuating shaft disposed be Ween saidcutter-levers, means upon said shaft for holding one of said cutterlevers against tilting movement upon said fulcrum, and means carried bysaid shaft for rocking the other of said levers upon its fulcrum wherebythe cutter-members are brought into cutting relation.

'7 In a buttonhole cutting and stitching machine, the cornbinathm WithStitdll-ffilny iug mechanism, of two cutterrlevers carry-i ingcooperating cutter-membcrs, a common fulcrum upon whi l). saidcutter-levers are mounted, a tram rse' a(.itimting; shaft dis-- posedbetween cutter-levers, a cylindrical stopcollar carried by" said shaftand disposed. in operative relation with one of said out enlevers, aspring for drawing said cutter-levers together and toward saidtransverse shaft, and an actuating cain carried by said shaft and di:rosed in opera ive relation with the other of said cutter-levers.

8. In al'nittonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combination withSiltClhfOlWIk ingmechanism. of two cuttenlevers carrying at theirforward ends cooperating cutterniembere, a traveling :ful g rum-hlochmovable toward and from the stitch-forming; inecha-- uism, a fulcrruncarried by said fulcrum block and upon which said cutto1;'-levers aremounted intermediate their ends, a transverse actuatinp shaft disposedbetween the rearward. end portions of such cutter-levers, and means uponsaid shaft for spreading and otherwise ctmtrolling' the positions of theadjacent portions of the cut-tenlevers for imparting relative op rativemovements to their cutteranembers.

9. In a buttonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, of two CIIlliQT-lQVG'ITS carrying at theirforward ends cooperating cutteri'nembers, a traveling fulcrum-blockmovable tor-Yard and from the stitclrforrning mechanism, a fulcrtuncarried by said fulcrum block upon. which. said cutter-levers arcuiounte-iil. intermediate their ends, a trans-- verse actuating shaftdisposed between the rearward end portions of such cutterdevers, aspring for dra wing together the rearward end portions of said.cutter-levers, and a cam.

and adjacent collar mounted. upon said shaft te e7 in operative relationrespectively. with the rearward ends of said levers.

- 10. In a buttonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combinationwith stitch-forming mechanism, of two. cutter-levers carrying at theirforward ends cooperating cutter-- members, a sliding fulcrum-blockmovable toward and from the stitclrforming-mechanism and means forsustaining the same, a

fulcrum carried by said fulcrum-block upon which said cutter-levers aremounted intermediate their ends, a transverse actuating shaft disposedbetween the rearward "ii-u portions of such cutter-levers, aspri fordrawing together the rearward end portions of said cutter-levers, a camand adjacent collar mounted upon said shaft operative relation rpt-Actively with the rearward ends of said lei s, a second cam on saidtransverse shaft, and a link-bar pivotally connected at one end to saidfulcrunrbloclr and yoked at the other end to embrace said transverseshaft and provided with a shoulder engaging the second named cam. r

lLIn a buttonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combinationwitlnstitch forming mechanism, of a vibratory cutter-lever carryingupon. its forward end a primary cutter-member, fulcrum upon which saidcutterdever is mounted intermediate its ends, a second cutter-membercooperating with the primary cutter--member,and provided. with means forsustaining the same, an actuating shaft disposed transversely of saidcutterlever, a cam thereon, a wearing piece carried by the cutter-1ers]: in operative reiation with said cam and having its operative faceadjustable toward and from said shaft relatively-to-the cutter-lever,and means con nected with said cutter-lever for maintainin the wearingpiece in operative relation 'with said cam.

12. In huttonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combination. withstitch-formingmechanism, of a vibratory cutter-lever carrying upon tsforward end a primary cutter-member, a fulcrum upon which saidcuttenlever is mounted intermediate its ends,

a second cutter member cooperating with the primary cutter-member and,rovided with means for sustaining the same, an actuating shaft disposedtransversely of. said cutterlev er, a cam thereon, and a wearing piecehaving a wedge-shaped operative. portion overlying vthe edgeof thecutter-lever and intermediate the same and said cam and provided withmeans for its adjustment lengthwise of said lever.

l3. Ina buttonhole' cutting and stitching i 0 mounted upon saidcarriage, actuating machine,- the combination with stitch-form'- ingmechanism, of a vibratory cutter-lever, a

fulcrum upon .'.which said cutter-lever is mounted intermediate itsends, an actuating shaft disposed transversely of said cutterlever, camupon said shaft in operative re lation with the cutter-lever, atransversely adjustable block carried by theforwiard end; of saidcutter-lever, a cutting 'knife sus tained by said block, an anvildisposed be-' nism, and a needle-throat movable indepen'dently of theloop-taking mechanism, of'atraveling cutter-carriage movable toward.

and from the stitch-forming mechanism,-

act eating means therefor, cooperating upper and lower cutter-membersmounted upon said carriage, actuating means therefor, and

positively acting means mounted upon said carriage for tilting saidneedle-throatout} operative position when thecutter-carriaga advances toperform a cutting operation and for returning and looking saidneedle-throat in operative posltion upon the recession of thecutter-carriage.

15.: In a buttonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combination withstitc-l'i forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; :1needle-throat, and a] tilting frame for ,said needle-throat having afulcrum tra-nsv 'erse to the needle-path and provided with a laterallyextending arin,of a traveling'cutter-carriagemovable toward and from thestitch-forming mechanism, actuating means therefor, cooperating upperand lower cutter-members mounted upon said carriage, actuating meanstherefor, and meansincluding a -cammember mounted-upon said cuttercarriage and engaging the lateral. arm-0f said tilting frame wherebysaid needlethroat is shifted into and out ofoperatitve mechanismrelation with the stitch-forming h 0t extreme and is positivelymaintained in positions. 116. Ina butto-nhole cutting and stitchingmachine, the combination with overseaming stitch forming mechanismincluding a reciprocating needle and a. cooperating loop-e taker, arotary loop-taker support, rotating means for said stitch-formingmechanism and the loop-taker support, and a'need'lthroat mounted uponsaidloop-taker support and movablertransversely of the needlepath, of-atraveling cutter-carriage movable toward and from the. stitch-formingmechanism, actuating means, therefor, c.ooperating upper, and lowercutter-members means therefor, means carried by the cutter-carr agefOIfShIftI-Hg and positively controlling the movements of theneedle-throat into and out of operativerelation with-the thelongitudinal adjustment 1 g mach1ne, the combination with strtch-fonnftoo ros-

needle when the cutting -mechanism .ad- 130.

:loose driving n heel nionntc il upon said vances for cntting ailintonhole in initial pt sition of the slitcl to-i, hing mechanism. andmeans-carried [iv-the loop-taker support for maintainingtheneedle-throat in operative position when the stitch t'ormfi gmechanism is rotated from initial [)Orll'ifiill.

In a-lmttonholt-je flitting and stitching machine, the combination "withoverseuming stitch-forming mechanism including a re- ClPl'OCiltlltgneedle and a cooperating looptalter, a rotary loop-taker support,rotating means for said stitch-forming mechanism and the loop-taltcrsupport, a, IIQQCllG-tlilOt-It, and a tilting frame for said needlethroat luring a fulcrum sustainetfl bvtind trans verse'to the axie oirot tion of the looptalier support and provit .-d with a later allyextending arm, of a traveling cuttercarria e movable toward and from thestiteh-torming mechanism, actuating means therefor, cooperating upperand lower cut ter-members mounted upon said carriage, actuating meanstl'iereitor, means including a C:1II1--l'l'll'l1l3@1"'DIIOUHtQCl uponsaid cuttercarriage and engaging the lateral arm of said it log t meWhile the stitcli-iorn'iing mechain n is in initial position wherebysaid 11L, le-throat is shifted into and out of operative position and islocked in both extreme positions, and a segmental :-;topplate carriedbythe loop-taker support and cotipcrating with said can: member in retaining the needle-throat in operative rela tion with the st'cl'i-i'ormii'ig mechanism WllllG the lat" turned out of initialposition during" a portion ofthe stitching er ation 18. In a buttonholestitching machine, the Combination with a buttonhole cutting oevice acntteii-sha'tt, and operative cont tions between 'iid shaft and theClaltlllf" vice, of a clu,eh-meinber fixed npcn the cutter-shaft, a,rrier movably mounted thereon and p .N L 1.1] r ntth a coupling tooth.

adjacent. the elut lnmemher and provided with a cou 'ilingt-oottradaptedfor operative engagement with the coupling tooth oi saidfixed men'iber. and a clutclzrcontrolling can'tplate movable toward andfrom the. fixed clutchdnembcr and trained with an opera tive edge ineccentric relatnm to said shaft and addpted for operative engaf ementwitl'i said movable carrier to disenca coupling tooth pm that of said(it -\\'heel 1%). ln a lniittonhole stitching machine, the combinutitm,with a lmtttndaole cutting device, a cuttt-zrsliaft, and operativecomieo tions between said shaft and the cutting device, of achitell-member tixml cuttenshatt, a carrier, n:1t:.- ;'abl a thereon andprovided with a coupling tooth,

a loose driring-Wheel mounted upon said the clutch-momher and pro vice,a loose dri .11

upon the motmted erative engagement with the coupling tooth of saidfixed member, a clutch-ctmtrolling cam-plate movable toward and from thefixed clutch-member and formed with an operative edge in eccentricrelation to said shaft and adapted for operative engagement with saidmovable carrier to disengage its coupling tooth from that of saiddriving-ivheel, manuall actuated. means for shifting said cinnplate outof operative relation with said carrier, and automatically acting meanstor returning 1t to operative position prior to the completion of arotation of the cutter-shaft.

20. In a buttonholestitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming me'ihanism, a main-shaft, a driving pulley lmsel'ymounted thereon, and a stop-motion device including a vibratt-irystop-lever whereby the main-shaft may be connected to and disconnectedfrom the driving pulley, of a buttonhole cutting device, a cutter-shaft,ope'at-ive connections between said cutter-shaft and the cuttin device,a loose tlri\'ing'\vlieel upon the cutter-shaft, a clutch-deviceupon thecuttershaft, and a movable controllil'ig member therefor adapted toeffect the connection. and disconnection of the driving-- Wheel and thecuttershaft and carrying a detaining member normally lying in the pathoflmovement of and adapted to prevent the actuation of the stop-lever\vliile said controlling n'iember is in clutching position.

'21. In a b uttonholc stitching machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mecha- 1 0 nism. a main-shaft, a drivingpulley loosely mounted thereon, and a stop-motion device for comiectingsaid driving pulley and the 1nain-slmlih ot? a buttonhole cuttingdevice, a cuttt:-1.'-.-.hal"ttween the cutt r-shaiit and the cutting(lclg-wheel upon the cutter slia' t, a clntcledevice for connecting thedriring-Wheel and the cutter-shaft, successively o 'icrable meanswhereby each of said loose drivii'ig members may be coupled to itsresnective shaft, and locking means comprising interengaging elementssustained indepLnlcntlv of both oi said shafts and adapted to preventthe operation of eaci or i said coupling means While the other is incoupling relation.

in a buttonhole stitching machine, the oon'ibination with stitch-formingmechanism, a main-shaiit't, a drivingilley loosely mounted thereon, anda stray-motion device for connecting said driving-pulley and themaiiii-shalt. oi a buttonhole cutting device, a cutter-shaft, operativeconnections between the cutter-shaft and the cutting device, a loosedriving-Wheel upon thecuttershaft, a clutch device for connecting thedriving-Wheel and the cutter-shaft, and

means carried by an operative part of one of the connecting devicesintermediate the cqierative connectione be--1 5 loose driving member andits respective shaftwhereby the other of said shafts is forciblymaintained disconnected from its respective loose driving member whilesaid connecting device is in operation.

23. In a buttonhole stitchingmachine, the combination withstitch-forming nit-char nism, a main-shaft, a driving pulley looselvmounted thereon, and a stop-motion device including a cam memberconnected to and rotating with the main-shaft and a vibrat 'ingstop-lever having a laterally extending rigid arm and carrying anelementdirectly engaging said cam member whereby the main-shaft may be set inmotion and arrested, of a buttonhole cutting device, a cutter-shaft.operative connections; between the cutter-shaft and the cutting device,means includinga clutch-device whereby a single rotation is imparted tothe cutter-shaft, and a cam mounted on the cutter-sl'iaft anda'da'pted'to engagerthe lateral arm of said step] ever for throwing thelatter to start the in a in-sha ft.

24. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechamsm, a rotary cam-Wheel from whichrel-.

ative feeding movements between the stitchforming mechanism and the workare de rived, a main-shaft, adriving pulley loosely mounted thereon, anda stop-motion device including a spring-pressed vibrating stopleverwhereby the main-shaft may be con" nected to and disconnected from thedriving pulley, ofa buttonhole cutting device, a cutter-shaft, operativeconnections between the cutter-shaft and-the cutting device, meansincluding a clutch-device whereby a single rotation is imparted to thecutter-shaft, a cam mounted on the cutter-shaft. means operated by saidcam for throwing the stop- ,lever' to start the main-shaft. a pivotally-mounted rived, a maireshatt, a driving pulley loosely mountedthereonQand a stop-motion device including a spring-pressed vibratingstoplever'whereby the main-shaft may be con-- nected toand disconnectedfrom the driving pulley, of a buttonh ole cutting device, acutter-shaft, operative connections between the cuttershaft and thecutting device, neans including a clutch-device whereby a singlerotation is imparted to the cutter-shaft, a cam mounted on thecutteiashaft. means operated by said cam tor-throwing the stoplever tostart the main-shaft, 5 pivotallv mounted stiringpressed latch lcveradapted for detaining said stop-lever in retracted position, a trippingstud on the; teed camwheel. and a rock-lever mounted upon a fixedfulcrum and having one arm in operative relation with said latch-lever,and a second arm having a nose-piece lying in the path of movement ofsaid tripping stud and adjustable toward and from the fulcrum of saidroclelever.

20. In a buttonhole stitching machine. the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a main-shaft, a driviliguilley loosely mountedthereon. and a stop-motion device including a vibrating stop-leverwhereby the main-shattmay be connected to and disconnected from thedriving-pulley, of a but-' tonhole cutting device, cutteractuating meansincluding a cutter-shaft, operative connections between the cutter-shaftand the cutting device, a connection between the cutter-actuating meansand the stop-lever whereby the latter is actuated to start themain-shaft, a loose driving-wheel upon the cutter-shaft, av clutchdevice including a movablecontrolling member for connecting anddisconnecting the driving-wheel and the cutter-shaft. a rigid detainingmember carried by said controlling member and normally lying in the pathof movement of said stop-lever and adapted for engagement with the same.a starting rod with one end disposed adjacent the stitch-tormingmechanisin, and a connection between the other end of said starting rodand said controlling member for shifting the latter.

27. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a main-shaft, a drivingpulley loosely mountedthereon, and a stop-motion device, including a vibrating stop-leverwhereby the main-shaft may be connected to and disconnected from thedriving-pulley, of a buttonhole cutting device, cutter-actuating meansincluding a Clllll'-5l1lfl, operative connections between thecutter-shaft and the cutting device, a connection between thecutter-actuating means and the stop-lever whereby the latter is actuatedto start the mainshaft, a'loose driving-wheel upon the cutter-shaft, aclutch device including a swinging lever for connecting anddisconnecting the driving wheel to and from the cutter-shaft, a rigidstop-arm carried by said swinging lever and normally lying in the pathof movement of said stop-lever and adapted 'for engagement with thesame, a startingrod with one end disposed adjacent the stitch-formingmechanism, and a lever mounted upon a fixed fulcrum and connected Withthe opposite end of said starting rod .i i arm oi said v e f we inmrhitm29 In. :1 hi. hmhole etuching nmehineflhe f notion. .o ,h siiiiehiorminginijaein'inisim and turning; means for inipzu'ting thereto a partialrotai'ion hnring the stitching 013' the eye of an eyelet-end hm. niihoieand 3 tom'- ing moven ,1 g iiion the eafnzr, of halitonij o'le cuttingmeelaniem i'miepenih entof the etiinxh-formii meehnnienz, snc-(:essiveiy opmnhle meann whey i i opei'm ion of the stiieh- Fern on annew o ting 1111151115 and i'he return 0 HUi'lui position of and mlewingin ihe stii'eh Fozrming mechanism Hfi'Bi' an inifin tm-ni imvemeni;may he (fiifQCiQLlh and means for iochiiiig; each of euidi'nezinsegninsvi; operation throughout the period din'in j which either of theliithere is pa. Jhin'nnqng its fiQSCl'iiJfil iit'uncit'ion.

29. In 5: hntlon hole etiiichin machine, the combination with 513'chaii'oimiii i miism and bll'ii'UhhOil-B cutting; Yfleljilzl oi? m lepenclentiy and sucreesimiy o' emh1e KMJHHH? ing means for minmeehnniems, means for coniroiiing; the operniion of each of saidactuating means, and locking; means 511+ "mu denim-(21y independenily ofholh of actuating means nnu. comprising; inf nt.

emme pendelltiy and successively operable achiatjug means 'ifor saidmechanisms, means for controlling the operation of each of saidactuating means, 'and locking means comprising re :iprocatoryinterengaging eler meme each movable between extreme posl Honscorresponding res'pectively with the ta iiei-eti've and inoperativerelations of said t!mting'means with the mechanism adapt-- to he driventhereby, said elements being adapted each in prevent the movement of i1Oi'ilfil in one of its extreme positions and to he prevented frommovement by the other in ifs other extreme position.

in h? timony whereof, I have signed my mum: l'o this specification, inthe presence of two erihscrihing witnesses.

11 0 each of said mechanisms while

